Badlanders MCC Website

 

Angostura bitter!

 

I returned to Bariloche quite late after my afternoon of fishing. But when I arrived, Ben and Hillary were waiting to take me out for dinner, in order to celebrate both Hilary’s and my birthday. We had a typically sociable night and I got back to the hostel for a drink in the bar, where we consumed a few more drinks and then retired for the night.

 

Given that tomorrow was to be a big celebration night, i took the bike out to the beautiful Llao Llao, passing luxury home after luxury home on the way out around the lake. When I returned, I was ready for a sleep rather than a party, so decided to go to have forty winks! That didn’t happen- try as I might there was to be no sleep. I came down as instructed for 10.30, though I knew the food wouldn’t be ready until 12! I was correct and have to say that I didn’t feel like eating or partying, particularly as I’d made up my mind that I would leave the next day after sorting the bike. However, with the benefit of a second breath, I went to the packed bar and “ disco” That meant I got to bed at 3.00 am!

 

Still determined to get up and off the next morning. I arose after sunrise and took the bike out to clean and oil it. As I was checking it over, I noticed the rear brake pads (which had been fitted 5 days earlier by Bariloche Bikes), were now down to nothing. I thought I’d been supplied with duff pads and went straight up to the shop to ask for a “free new set” As soon as I got into the shop Claudio looked at the brake pads and looked at me in amazement. “Where have you been for the last five days?” he said. I explained that I had only done the 380 or so kilometres towards Esquiel, but infact turned back to El Bolson! He said- you sure you haven’t been to Bolivia? I laughed. He concluded it was the weight of the bikes on the hills, which were really steep, (of that there can be no doubt!) He looked to see if it would be possible to fit disc brakes, but felt that I needed to change to the old traditional V brake! I could barely remember what they looked like. However, new brakes were fitted and I was ready to roll again the next day which was Sunday the 12^th  July. How time flies?

 

After another meal and delightful evening with Ben and Hillary, this time at the rather plush looking Sushi club, we got back and sat and looked at the photos of their trip. Photos of Angkor and all the other places that I’d seen in Cambodia. But I’d not seen any of the spectacular sights that they had of the Philipines and Borneo! Maybe some day ehh?

 

We were apparently making too much noise and upsetting Valeria who is covers reception at night and is normally delightful. This was even though base from the pub below us was throwing out  more megawatts than a power station!) So we retired and I slept like a log.

 

When I got up the sky looked great, so I was ready to go within ½ hour and after a few pics with Ben and Hilary and an exchange of email details, I was off. This time I left with the wind behind me and spectacular sunlight bouncing off the lake! I knew however that having the wind behind me at this point meant that I’d b e cycling into the wind as I curved around the lake and headed for Angostura.

 

On the way around the lake I saw yet another display of dancing birds, this time with the grace and style that would match Fred Astaire and Ginger Rodgers. Maintaining an equidistant 10- 12 metres, the birds flew from behind me through this shrub land flowing the countour of the land and then swept up to about 20 feet above this steep hill and crag. Yet again, they were about ten metres apart, but this time stationary as they held their position in the wind. Then after about ten seconds, the swooped down to the ground and swept back along the valley on the other side of the crag. Pure class and style! Don’t anyone tell me that these guys don’t really dance. This was choreographed to perfection!

 

Ok- the bit you’ve all been waiting for!

 

I was about ten km outside Angostura, when sunset started. I was starting to look for a spot for the tent, when suddenly there was this sign for cabanas by the lakeside. I thought, well; its worth a try...Let’s see how much they are charging!  I cycled down this pathway, and by this time could see some nice cabins overlooking the lake. I looked for people and could seen nothing. Then I saw this cabin that looked like a service/ booking cabin. With bike against the wall I walked towards it. Guess what? There he was...El perro sitting on the terrace of the bungalow. It got up from slumber and started barking and made directly for me. This time I had no bike to use to keep it at more than arms length, and I knew that running would make it worse. I stopped and tried to say friendly Hola. But it leapt for my face snarling and snapping. I pushed it away, and turned to make a beeline. As I turned, I slipped in this silt and fell to the ground. Within seconds the dog had sunk its teeth into my heel and what i thought might have been Achilles tendon! Not even the cycling boots stopped it from entering through to skin, bone and, more worryingly possibly a tendon. As It shook my heel around like a rag doll, I tried to punch it in the face, and at this point the dogs owners came out. Talk about looking like something out of Deliverance, the movie. The dog was beautiful by comparison. They managed to call the dog off, just as another little black spaniel came running towards me. I looked at the blood coming from my ankle and tried to get to my feet. But my heel was having none of it. I was thinking the worse by this time. Achilles tendon damaged, meant months of rehabilitation, not just a few days rest! Anyway this ugly old guy said something like why was I there? After trying to compose myself, as I lay on the ground I explained I was looking for cabins for a night. “ No cabins” was the response. “But it says cabins up on the street” I said. Si - no cabins.He changed his mind and said $200 american dollars par noche night...para  sieti persones”

 

“ I responded with a polite valle and was trying to get my boot off, though could see the hole through the two pairs of sock, full length lycra and running tights! There was no doubting it this time; I had been succesfully attacked and only just rescued before it removed a leg! The 2 “deliverance” characters were looking less and less willing to help. I asked if I could use a telephone to get to the hospital in Angostura. No telephone was the response. He pointed at a sign on a tree saying “Cuidad el perro”. I explained that this was a set of cabins for tourists, in my best Spanish. He shrugged his shoulders, I wanted to take him out with the flag pole on the back of my trailer.

 

To cut a long story short, I ended up getting taken the ten km to Angostura in this guy’s beat up old Renault. And I mean beat up old Renault!

 

We didn’t speak a word all the way through...I was clearly wincing in pain. He was probably thinking...a scratch; I was thinking; time for me to deal with you, your son  (if that’s what he was) and dog with a chainsaw! When we arrived at the hospital, he had at least taken all my dismantled bike out of the car and squeezed in a token “desculpe me!” I responded with a polite, “valle”, albeit through gritted teeth.

 

I eventually worked out how to get into the hospital and after the wound was cleaned by a nurse, a doctor eventually came to see me and started to move my foot around, as I winced in pain. Through there was a language barrier, I concluded that he said that there was no major or lasting damage...just a need for a few days rest and regular cleaning off the wound! Huh! Easy for him to say!

 

So what do you think I found as I walked back from the hospital which was on the edge of the town? You guessed it; another snarling snapping monster of a dog! I give up. Any suggestions on how to deal with them will be welcomed!

 

I suppose that it was inevitable that I’d suffer a full and bloody attack, but my faith in man’s best friend has now waned completely. I now want a tazer gun or indeed, anything that can carve them into sausage meat. And I don’t care who I offend!!!!!!