Well I arrived in
Rio Grandé
much later than I expected, due to a battle against a strong relentless
headwind. However, the sun was shining and so i should be thankful for small
mercies. You will, by now, have seen my escapade with the earphones, so I won’t
bore you with it again.
After a bit of a search, I eventually found the Hotel Villa,
which at 215 pesos per night, went above my budget. But it had a bath (or so I
thought!), so was worth the extra 100 that I had set aside for overnight stays
in hostels. Instead it was a large basin for the shower, shaped like a small
bath. There was no mistaking it- no plug for the drain! Across the road from
the Hotel I could get a room with a bath in the Status Casino hotel- the
receptionist said- but much more expensive! This’ll do I thought. They also
agreed to lock my bike up for me.
Nevertheless, I enjoyed a shower and went out to get
something to eat as it appeared that the restaurant wasn’t open. A few streets
away, I found this jazzy little place, full of colour and decided I would check
out what food they had on offer.
I ordered a steak sandwich and an apple juice. Some 10
minutes into my meal, in walked “the old bill” fully equipped with pistols and
truncheons. There were six of them plus two outside. They were looking over in
my direction. At first, I thought, this
didn’t look good! I think the barstaff dissuaded them about me, no doubt
saying he cant speak a word of Spanish, so I won’t be able to answer any
questions. Eventually they picked out a young slip of a girl who must have been
all of six stone! There must have been an exchange of words and it all looked
fairly diplomatic, then all of a sudden handcuffs were on and she was escorted
out the waiting van! Just think, you rely on about the same number of coppers
to control Morpeth on Saturday night!
I took the bike to a bike repair shop to see if I could have
the gears looked at, as my adjustments were having little real effect, but the
shop did not do repairs, had no lights, no gear cable....but it had an inner
tube. That was something I suppose! As I cycled around without trailer and
panniers, the bike felt better instantly and enjoyed the perambulation around
the one way streets, until of course, uno perro aparecer ( a dog appeared) -
sucio animal!
Whilst cycling around, I found a fishing tackle shop, where
the owner spoke great English. He advised me where to get a better pair of
light gloves, but full finger at a bike shop closeby. I have to say the bike
shop ( Everest) was great. It had superb bikes and accessories, and as my old
faithful shoes were now giving me blisters and were causing my feet to freeze,
I bought a pair of SPD cycling boots, hoping that they might do the trick as
far as possible!
Things were looking up! However I couldn’t get a fitting for
my light, so that was going to have to wait.
I also popped into a brilliant
little coffee shop, where the staff were delightful. Free WI- FI and excellent
coffee. I sat for a few hours catching up on emails and enjoying a few
coffees, which they served with the most delicious speciality chocolates!
When I got back to the hotel, I found a way of making the
bath work (don’t ask!). Didn’t get much of my body in however, ( no comments
about size please), however I did get a my first semi bath of the trip so far!
The restaurant opened at about 9.00. The first group came in
about 9.10- a group of loud boisterous guys went through as another four or
five tables filled up. As far the boisterous lads- I silenced them. They seemed
to be making comments about all of the people sitting at the tables, including,
I thought,me! As I was in the middle of
a lovely piece of trout, one of the guys took his top of and displayed a
stomach, the likes of which you’ve never seen outside of the fat club! I
started to hum “who ate all the pies”. There was instant silence from the
group. The song, it seems is universally understood! I prayed that they didn’t
know my next day’s plans.
What was really interesting is the number of youngsters with
parents that come right up to 11 o’clock. I’m not just talking teenagers
either! There were a number of under tens and three babies! For most of the
night, the TV had shown replays of
Argentina
and
Colombia, part of which
I’d seen in my room, and
Uruguay
v
Brazil.
But soon after all the replays finished, the TV started to show some rather
risqué pornographic material.There was
a mad dash by the solitary waiter ( handling 16 tables no less) to try and find
the TV remote control and switch the channel. This was met by more noisy
outbursts from the group of four, but very much in humour, and the whole of the
restaurant took in a similar fashion. I just wondered whether they had such a
thing as a watershed, and if so, when does it start?
As for the families young couples with babies, this is
clearly a chance to show off the offspring, who are pawed over by the waiter
and the receptionist, who leaves the desk to “get a shot” of holding the baby!
All the children were pretty good though; i never heard as much as a whimper
from any of them. It was by this time nearly 12pm and in walked another two
families with little ones. Both were rubbing their eyes...god knows how they
were going to start far less finish their meal!
My three hours in the restaurant taught me more about the
Argentinean culture/ way of life than anything I’ve seen so far.
After a night of car racing (yes, I mean car racing- on Ave
San Martin outside the hotel), and as a result no sleep until well into the
early hours, I was up at 8 and started to sort out the bike for the journey. As
always, it took longer than I had hoped, but I was off by 10.30 and on my way
to
San Sebastian.
As you leave
Rio Grande,
on the north side, you start to find where the wealthy live! Some of the villas
overlooking the water are spectacular. It is also comforting to see the dog
owners have their dogs on leads! Pleased to say I only had to contend with 10
barking dogs on departure, one of which chased me....and nearly lost its life
under the wheels of a petrol tanker. For a moment I thought serves you
right............nah, of course I didn’t.........
