Badlanders MCC Website

 

Did i tell you that the hills between Temuco and Los Angeles were tough...No? Well they were! Look at the pics for one of the monsters, just one of them, this one was just outside Collupulli. The problem is; they never look as big on camera as they are for real. All I can say is, it’s a good job my map doesn’t have contours, as I might never have bothered leaving Valdivia. Best not knowing what we don’t know!!! Cue for a paper or lecture! But contrast that with today’s cycle from Los Angeles to Chillan. I averaged 14.12 mph. Now, I know that is Peter Brierley’s average cycle time, uphill, through Hartside, but for a man who is nearly 50, but who is not sure what age he is! carrying over 90kg...that’s a pretty good time!

 

You know what made the difference? After replacing the brake-pads, I decided rather than using my hand-pump, I’d take the bike to a bike repair shop and get them to use a foot-pump. Now there is no doubt that, with the correct pressure in the tyres 90 psi (why does this come as a surprise to a thick jock?), the speed increases exponentially, or,  by 4 miles per hour!!!!! I also enjoyed the marmalade from the Dikran that morning- I’m sure it had something to do with it! The Dikran, my hotel in LA was clean and pleasant and, though it was £24, it was excellent value for money. However there was a somewhat solemn attitude throughout the hotel, which was unsettling! I found out at night why. I ate at the Sheraton...Now I know what you are thinking...Punto Arenas all over again. However I still set a £10 limit to my meal, which is considerably more expensive than porridge, I know, but is good VFM! Lamb in a raspberry and chocolate sauce and caramalised onion. Sounds disgusting, doesn’t it? It was brilliant! The really good thing about eating in these places is that the waiters really do make a special effort ( though one made the biggest hash of delivering two bottles of coke i have ever seen- dropped the lot 2 bottles, two glasses, ice and lemon..... and tray- spectacular!) However my waiter was a teacher..I know it sounds like Cuba, but he was very keen to correct my mispronunciations! As we talked it turned out that his girlfriend worked in the reception in my hotel. He explained that she had been working for nearly 36 hours due to staff problems! Apparently, the owner’s son was killed in a car accident in New Zealand, and he was in NZ trying to bring the body back! Explained the solemn attitude! It is also more than a valid reason for less than adequate service.

 

 The routes out of the main towns and cities are hairy. Roads are bad, vehicles give no room; they sit with their hands on the horn. I don’t know where they expect me to go. There is a road one side, or a ditch or crash barrier on the other!

 

Now there is something quite bizarre about a cycle route through different climates. A few weeks ago I was in a landscape full of snow, ice, pampas and Pine trees. Today, I reached cactus landscape! Cactus landscape! In addition, the temperature had increased to 12 degrees by mid-day!! 12 degrees....... should be cycling in trunks! My bright red face proves it! You should never underestimate the strength of the sun, even though your cheeks look and feel blue......and your face doesn’t look to good either!

 

Anyway, I made it to Chillan at about 5.30, after a  stop off at a Copec station for tea and chocolate and the delightful Mary Qeupec, roadside cafe in Santa Clara, where I ate the biggest  Churrasco you have ever seen, steak, avocado, tomato, lettuce on a huge roll!

 

I arrived in good time, at Chillan Viejo, birthplace of Bernard O’ Higgins. Liberator extraordinaire from Ireland, who sorted out the infidels!!!!

 

I reached the centre of Chillan, and went to Hostel Canada, as advised by the Lonely Planet, only to find that they expected me to lift a bike and trailer up two flights of stairs!!!! A few steps further and I found the Hotel Paso Nevada, which at 4 pesos more, permitted me to put my bike and trailer right in front of my room door at ground floor. It  also had the most powerful shower I have had to date. I was also able to wash my clothes and hang them on radiators in the room. After 6 days (don’t turn your head away in disgust.....this is the real world of wild cycling and camping!), that’s a godsend, if not for me, for the people around me!

 

Anyway, the shower was as good as a massage!  Well maybe not quite! Roll on Santiago!