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As I explained in my last BLOG update, I was going stir crazy waiting for bike parts in Punto Arenas, and decided to take an excursion to Torres del Paine, which involved a bus trip to Puerto Natales. I did so for two reasons, one because the tour operator and a policeman said that its impassable by bike, though clearly the buses were travelling there ( or had they taken my money under false pretences?). The second reason, was to get a bit of exercise- after all , no cycling for five days was enough to drive anyone crazy. And there is only so much good living you can do, when you’re not supposed to!  So I decided I would go trekking in Torres del Paine which I had intended to do in any case, once I reached Puerto Natales. But a significant delay caused by the broken bike was going to make this impossible, if I was to have any hope of keeping to some semblance of time. At this rate, it was beginning to look like I’d never finish. Oh! There was another reason. I decided, like Chatwin, I’d try and find myself a piece of dinosaur skin, bone or fossil!!!! More about this in the next BLOG update, especially for Euan, Em and Al.

 

So I arrived at the bus station to throngs of people. It was clear that there would be a lot of disappointed people if this bus wasn’t travelling! Sure enough, I took my seat, and though all the seats on the bus were taken, the one next to me was free. After all, who wants to be sat next to a Gringo for three and half hours! Great; an opportunity to stretch out a bit!

 

However about ½ hour into the trip, the conductor ,(do your remember them folks?- Sorry to the younger readers who have no knowledge of such a concept!) decided to do a bit of re-arranging of seats. He arranged for a young lady with a baby to sit next to me. It became obvious after a few minutes why. It was because the young lady’s mother was sat in the seat across the isle presumably with the lady’s other child who was about two years old. I took a look at the baby and said “ bonito” to the young lady and looked again. It was fairly clear that this was a new born baby, whose eyes hadn’t yet opened was barely a day or maybe two day’s  old. I looked at the young lady and asked “bebe you just had?” “Si” she said. “Y A Puerto Natales transito por trez, y midia ora?” (And  you are now travelling to Puerto Natales for 3 ½ hrs) “Si” she said with a somewhat pained expression. Her mother had dozed off with the other child who was also sleeping. The young lady tried to get her Mum’s attention, but it was no use, they were sound asleep. I asked the lady if I could help “ Puede ajudar?” I know that wasn’t correct, but I couldn’t remember the correct words . She knew I was offering to help and she was clearly suffering. Not surprisingly after just having given birth and an hour into an uncomfortable a 3½ hour bus journey. I put my arms out and there I was with one baby. As the young lady rose, her mother woke up. She looked at me, smiled and I wondered if I’d found myself part of a Chilean tradition- a cultural thing. And for a moment I wondered whether you acquire any other responsibilities when you are left holding the baby? Anyway, after ten minutes, the girl returned with blanket to sit on. I let her get comfortable, before offering the baby back. She made a remark and gesture which I assume jokingly meant that I was doing a good job, I could keep her.  “No”, and with a gesture that said as soon as the baby opens her eyes, she will cry!, she laughed and took the baby from me.  Just goes to show you though; you never lose the knack!!!!

 

Tomorrow I was facing a bigger challenge.... Torres del Paine and my search for a piece of dinosaur!!!!