Whilst killing time in
Punta
Arenas, I went into the Comapa Touristo office to find
out about some excursions. I rather fancied the idea of going to see some
Magellanic Penguins! So I asked the lady behind the desk, “would it be possible
to take a trip out to the isla de penguinos to see some Penguins?” “No, no
possible” she said. “You can only see them when they come to the island to
mate!” Interesting! I thought, whilst I am sure that would be something many
would be interested to see, I explained I just wanted to see them doing what
penguins do, waddling around. “They mate” she said. Well there was a clear
fixation on this matter and I thought I would throw in a useless, but appropriate
bit of humour. “Well. I suppose we should look on the bright side.....at least
they’re monogamous! Spanish for monogamous anyone?
Didn’t bring a smile to her face! So, I said “is there
anything else worth seeing?”. She said “I’m afraid I have to go now”. One of
these ladies will help you! I did wonder whether to ask if she had some
penguins to see to, but thought better of it. Even I couldn’t possibly stoop
that low!
Fortunately,the next
lady had no fixation with mating penguins and encouraged me to take a trip to
Torres del Paine. I explained that I was intending to cycle there as soon as I
receive the parts for my bike. No possible. I thought, not again, do the
mountains and glaciers only mate at certain times of the year also? So I asked
why. No para bicicletta. Oh you are not allowed to take a bicycle into the
Nacional Parque, is that it? No it is very deep snow. A trickle of snow; “No
problemo” I said. There was a policemen standing behind me. He confirmed that
it wouldn’t be possible.
I decided to book the excursion to Torres del Paine, to see
for myself! You will see from the photos that this is no place to go cycling,
nor indeed was the ungritted route from
Punta
Arenas and Puerto Natales! I did wonder for a large
part of the trip, whether this was the biggest risk I’d be taking. I was
wrong....the bus tour through parts of Torres
del Paine Nacional Parque was much scarier!