The above translates as follows: “He who hurries in
Patagonia loses time” Never a truer word was said!
Hurrying to get the miles in, in force 9 gales gave me a broken bike and
trailer. Furthermore,this all meant a
further delay because I’d failed to avoid the heavy snow and really bad ice on
the roads between Puerto Natales. There’s no doubt about it, you really are
tied to nature’s clock here in
Patagonia.
Weather dictates everything!
However, I’m assured that my bike parts have made it to
Punta Arenas. They just
haven’t reached me. I’m now becoming the proverbial“dolor en la parte posterior” at
Chile-xpress, the local courier. The office is practically 10 metres from the
hostel. I can’t understand why the courier decided to travel half way aournd
Patagonia with all the other post before dropping of
mine! Anyway, I must remember, Quien se apura en la
Patagonia
pierde el tiempo.
This was an opportunity to let the snow subside, and
hopefully for the local authorities to grit the roads!!!! It’s not just the
UK
that runs out of salt and grit during bad weather! Now do we think there’s a
business opportunity for bicycle snow chains???
Whilst trying to control my budget, I decided to try and eat
at local, basic restaurants/cafes. This was also a bad move. It turns out that
the price for food varies very little from the back street cafe to the plush
hotels, and 3 star restaurants. But the cost of eating slightly cheaper is much
greater on the stomach. I have now managed to suffer from food poisoning twice
during my trip. Now can someone explain how I can get food poisoning in
sub-zero temperatures, whereas, I suffer not one bit in the more tropical
temperatures of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam or Cuba! I wondered for a while whether
I was developing an intolerance to seafood. An intolerance to seafood! That
would be likea world of permanent darkness I certainly hope not.
Last night, I ate at the Cabas de Hornos hotel, which is
pretty special. I had grilled tilapia, with a special, herb rice and a side
salad. That, plus a half bottle of wine and a bottle of water, came to a grand
total of £13.00. Now that isn’t bad. I couldn’t buy a coffee and scones in any
of our top hotels for that price!I then went to Jekus bar, which if i haven’t
mentioned before, is a great restaurant with great staff. The young lady that
manages all the bills and money talked to me about this being padresdia and asked whether I had children. “Si,
dos hijos y una nieto” . She said something I didn’t understand, but I took out
the Ipod and showed off some of the photos. Ah bonito. That was a remark for
Euan, just in case either of you two lads get carried away! Anyway she
disappeared for a few minutes and came back with a special little Jekus gift
bag with a quarter bottle of whisky saying “muchas felicidadas en tu dia Papa”
What a sweetheart!
However, on to serious cycling stuff; my reason for
being....here! Bike is oiled and ready to go. If the snow and ice doesn’t
subside tomorrow, I am going to have to go by 4x4 or ferry from Puerto Natales.
Now that would be a real jolt to my mileage plans by a couple of hundred miles,
but I’ve always promised to come back and complete, if for any reason the trip
was interrupted by anything.Well I
wasn’t planning on an interruptions by way of a broken bike that required parts
from the other half of the world ( at a cost of postage that almost exceeded
the cost of the trailer!) However, I always realised that the weather might
present problems. Let’s be clear, nothing will stop me from cycling the full
miles that I had planned.
I hope at least to get to El Calafate by bike. I simply must
see Perito Moreno. And I must do so, by putting in the miles!
Miles.... Now that’s an interesting subject and one that is
in need of a sensible, constructive debate as Obama would say! You see, one of
my good mates and fundraising champion extraordinaire,Kev Ritchie has been doing his own research
and has calculated the distance to be closer to 8600 km rather than 8600 miles.
However, as googlemaps are pretty useless for calculating distances in these
areas, I relied on Rupert Atlee and Co’s recorded mileage from Ushuaia to lake
Titicaca, which was 6000 miles, 6130 to be exact. I added a modest, but as well
calculated as possible, 2,600 miles for the trip on to
Colombia. Give or take a few miles,
I thought that would be about right. And it fitted in nicely with my total days
of service in Local Government. Now I know Barry has alway’s said, leave the
figures to him, but if he or anyone else can get a more accurate handle on the
mileage that would be helpful. I know that it’s pointless doing it as the crow
flies, or as a LAN flight would do it! After all, and Kev will know this, as
the crow flies, its about 7 miles from Burntisland to
Edinburgh. But you’d have to get a bit wet on
the route! And I’m not talking about rain either! The mileage is, a more
accurate, 24; so the distance has increased by a factor of 3+! Now there are
some difficult lakes, mountains and even bridges to traverse over here in South
America,
so that might explain the distance. However, it could also be the case that
Rupert, Mike and David got a little lost en ruta or were diverted, as I was, by
the Glaciar Grey!
So as I said, we are in need of a sensible, constructive
debate here. The good news is, I wasn’t being sponsoredper mile. But I do hope I aint gonna be here
forever trying to find a route that gives me 8600 miles. After all, I could end
half way down the Amazon, never to be found again!- the proverbial creeks and
paddles spring to mind! So, a sensible debate please. A bit of Barry’s ability
to make the figures do impossible things would be welcomed. Indeed, all contributions
would be welcomed.
As ever; Quien se apura en la
Patagonia
pierde el tiempo! A metaphor for everywhere and everything else in life
.......and, of course,.....The journey matters!
Must get myself some more porridge and get back to basics; like
e.g. looking for Brontosauri ( is that the plural of brontosaurus?)