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The Road to Rio Grande

 
The road to Rio Grande- 3 June
 

After a morning of bike maintenance and clothes washing, I sat in the excellent Panaderia Union cafe until 11.45 tonight. I was reading through some of the details of the journey to El Calafate and trying to pick out Hostel stops on the way.  It took about 4 hours to upload one short video!-One video! There won’t be many videos going on the BLOG if it takes that long. I tried to sort out a blast email to contacts to notify them of my frustration with PIPEX. But then PIPEX wouldn’t let me send it!!!! Get ready for a complete cessation of my relationship with my ISP; a relationship I have had for 12 years, no less!
 

The guy behind the counter in Panaderia Union cafe told me they didn’t close until 12.00, the woman sweeping the floor was clearly getting angrier and angrier, showing her disdain whilst I sat at a table, eating the odd fractura/empanada and drinking the odd coffee. I was getting worried that the video wouldn’t upload before she threw a chair at me!  She’d managed to put chairs on all the tables except mine. Then I was saved. In walked a group of workmen  who lifted the chairs off two tables and sat down. Phew! At that point I left and headed off back to my little cabin. However en route I spotted this little tin hut masquerading as an Irish bar, you could guess it was irish by the front decoration- it was fully stencilled with shamrocks, so I wandered  in. It stank of stale smoke and .........something else! Anyhow, I approached the bar man– “una cervesa por favour” ; “que tipo” the barman said. “Que tienni” I said. Heineken, Quilmes ( all types), another few lagers and then, he said, Guinness. “Tienni usted Guinness?”  “Si signor.” “Muy bien” I said. I gave the barman 50 pesos and received 30 back. I said “Una bottega de Guinness”. “Si Signor” the barman responded.  I looked at the money- he looked at the money.” Importada signor”. I said “caro”(expensive). He also pointed to the frosted glass? Can someone explain the true value of a frosted glass? most of which are chipped to ensure you don’t have to worry about the wind cutting your lips open? I didn’t know how to say I’ll make it last......... I just did! They had to practically throw me out of here also.
 

Anyway, I finished my drink and headed down the road at about 1am, anxious about meeting muts and still angry at having left my sunglasses at Haruwen. But I was not prepared to go back- there is no going back- ahead only!
 

The next morning, I went to cash in some dollars and a few Euros that I had kept as spare back up cash. Remember-  I still have no bank card! It could be anywhere between UK and Tierra del Fuego. The guy in Banco del Tierra del Fuego was a friendly chap. He could speak reasonably good English, and talked about his visit to Ireland last year. However, my appreciation of his friendliness quickly turned to frustration when it took 30 minutes to cash 50 dollars and what should have been 70 Euros, but he wouldn’t accept the ¤ 50 note because of a very slight tear at the bottom, midway through the note! I suppose I should be thankful for small mercies-  I got the best exchange rate yet; 3.72 pesos to the $ and 5.24 pesos to the ¤!
 

Well it took an age again to pack. The tent hadn’t fully dried following my efforts to clean it the day before, and all my gear was lying around the room, whilst I figured out the best way to pack for ease of unpacking in the correct order! I also decided to leave the rice. Firstly because it added a whole 2kg to the weight I was carrying and secondly, realising that it would take too long to boil in any event and therefore waste fuel. I also left the Mazola spray oil. It wasn’t heavy, but I decided that I wouldn’t be catching much fish in frozen rivers!
 

As the time wore on and I finished packing, I looked out of the cabin to see a beautiful rising sun. I had to move, but I’d promised to drop an email home before I left, and wasn’t sure that I would get to the Panaderia cafe. I packed the bike and as I was leaving, in drove this 4x4 police car. I thought “this didn’t look good”. Any way the rather large and jolly policeman got out and smiled whilst walking into the house. I assumed that he must be the owner. As I manoeuvred my bike and trailer out, he came out the house and came over to the cabin to help. I asked (in sign language) if he wanted the key. “si” he said. I gave him the key. I also gave him the rice and oil and dreaded him looking at the shower basin, which I hadn’t been able to clean properly after cleaning the tent and trailer bag! He did just that, looked into the bathroom- a bathroom, with a bidet no less! However, he didn’t bat an eyelid and then shouted to his wife, I assume, who was also dressed in a police officer’s outfit, asking her to get the camera. He then proceeded to take a picture of me. I hoped that he was a better investigator than he was a photographer, as I could see that the lense cover was closed. However, pleased that he had pressed a button, and without having any idea as to how to check he had got the picture, he waved me goodbye.

I stopped into YPF ( Argentinian petrol station) to buy a coffee, a sandwich, some water and gatorzade for much needed energy. I also nearly gave a truck driver a heart attack. He asked me where i was going and I told him Colombia! He turned purple and almost stopped breathing by laughing too hard!
 

I set off into the sunset, confident that I would be travelling along uninhabited perro (dog) territory. However, I’d no sooner left, when this Alsatian came out of nowhere and started growling, barking and snapping at my heels. I tried to come to a stop, but instead slid on the still frosty road. That’s not helpful with a juggernaught behind you and carrying a heavy load! I growled back. It stopped. I growled louder, it started to move back. Someone must have shouted on it. As a result, I was off again. What I want to know is this? How come Chatwin ( of In Patagonia fame always talked about dogs coming up and licking faces during his travels in Patagonia and all I get is dogs wanting to munch mine??? I put it down to that gruesome Scot ,who lived in Patagonia in the 1800s and owned a large estancia. He was known for his terrorising of native indigenous people and eventually going mad, allegedly to be found bellowing on all fours whilst eating grass. I know what you’re thinking; sounds like a normal Friday night out after the Joiners Arms in Morpeth . These darn muts must smell the scottishness in my calves!
 

That latest mut episode over, I was off and it wasn’t long before I had my first sighting of the ethereal guanaco. What a sight? They run like prehistoric creatures: dinosaurs even (unintended sarcasm). I couldn’t quite remember which type, then it came to me – velociraptors! Except these ones run away from you rather than chase after you and eat you. The road was almost trafficless (is there such a word?) and I almost became bored seeing guanaco upon guanaco or herds of guanacos (I assume that’s the term for groups of Guanacos!) Some smart Alex will be able to correct me no doubt!
 

Though I’d cycled for four hours, and completed 45 miles, which was more like the mileage to time ratio I was hoping to complete, it was also clear that I wasn’t going to get to Rio Grande before darkness- nowhere near it in fact.  I spotted a small hamlet, with some houses and figured this might be Punto Maria, which was 2/3 of the way to Rio Grande. I figured wrong. It was the Estancia Viamonte, which was only a few kilometres from Punto Maria. I decided it was time to stop, regardless, as I spotted a small house with a light on.
 

I disembarked, stabilised the bike and trailer, which is no easy task-let me tell you, and knocked on a door. A head popped out of a window and this little guy with a bloodstained apron stuck his head out. He said something that I didn’t understand. However, I proceeded to introduce myself. “Oiga Perdona”, My Ilamo Ken, me viaje con bicecletta al Colombia –Nefecito habitacion para una noche. Puede usted ayudarme por favour?” I received a blank stare. He closed the window and walked away. I pondered whether my attempt at speaking Spanish was just as unintelligible as it sounds like to me most of the time. I even wondered if he might be of a different nationality.  He suddenly appeared in front of me with his meat cleaver- nice welcome, I thought. He was an interesting little man. About a headsize smaller than me....and you know how short I am! Hablar inglese? I asked. “ No” he said. It appeared as if he was pondering over my dilemma. So I repeated, in short- Habiticione- “no” he said. “Campino”, I said. “No” he said. This was going to be tough; I could tell! He beckoned me around in to the house, sorry, el casa. Sat in the middle was a huge aga and on the counter I saw the largest slab of meat I had ever seen outside an abbatoir. He went over to a window and picked up a phone. Obviously he didn’t get a response. He peered out of the window, presumably looking for the boss. I remained hopeful. He was at least doing something! He eventually got through to somebody and started talking. I picked up the words “ persona, bicicletta, al Colombia, permisso habiticione”. I interjected. “Manana, al Rio Grande”. He added “Manana al Rio grande”. He said “si, si, si”. He put the phone down. “Valle” he said.  He then said “Te”?. With a look of desperation, I said “Si Signor. Muchas Gracias”. He proceeded to pour hot water in an old tin mug and he gave me a plate of bread rolls and jam. I didn’t want to abuse the hospitality, and took two rolls, but about four sugars in the tea. I know, what you are thinking; I must be ill! I’ve never taken sugar in my tea in my life, or perhaps for just a short while in my teens! I knew my muscles were screaming out for energy and as far as I was concerned, this was my one and only way of providing that energy. As I devoured the rolls and slurped the tea, he continued to cut through the beef with his cleaver. Then he would put salt on it and bash it to smithereens. Futbol was on the telly. I thought, perhaps I should spark up some conversation. “Boca juniors”, I asserted. “No”, he said, loudly and defiantly. I thought presumably he is no fan of Boca jnrs. So instead I said. “Rivadavia?”. He said “no” even louder and more defiantly. “Valle” (ok) I said. What worried me is that he was looking at me whilst still slicing the meat with the cleaver and  doing so with complete precision. I thought, if I say another word, given his stern expression, he could easily split my head in two with the cleaver from the ten yards between us, without looking. Time to keep quiet, I thought. Suddenly he blurted out Francia y Quatari. “Valle”, I said, and sat quietly. After a minute or two, he pointed out of the window. “la Casa” he said. “Valle” I said . He made an ushering motion as if to say, “now go”. I left, picked up the bike and struggled across the field to the only wooden house with a light on and ............the sound of many barking dogs! Me casa par de noche!  More about this in the next update! Look at the pictures for a preview!

Over and out for now