Badlanders MCC Website

 

Okay folks

 

This has been the most intense cycling I have done so far. It’s also been pretty boring; cloudy, rainy and long. When I left Valdivia I arrived in Temuco at about 7.45 at night. I‘d always promised myself following my last escapade trying to erect my tent in the dark, that I’d stop at sunset, with enough daylight to erect the tent and have something to eat.

 

I decided, however, as.......well there is no finer way of putting this, I’d been cycling for three days, a total of 28  hours, so I stank  and felt that a hostel was called for. I was always determined not to do big cities in the dark, for good reason. Traffic can be less tolerant. There is never a hard shoulder and up to this point I’d never seen a cycle lane.

 

As I arrived in Temuco, there was a sign reading “Temuco Norte”, or “ Temuco centro”. I decided to take the centro route believing that this would be the most likely place to find a residencia or hostel. Completely wrong! I spent an hour cycling around this dodgy barrio, where even the dogs were frightened to walk about, finding nothing but car workshops and basic shacks.

 

Interestingly though, on the avenida de poetas, I found my first ever cycling lane.....but only after about 10 minutes into my cycle trip. It was only when watching this guy cycling down the central concourse of this four lane road,  that I realised that the cycle lanes were in the centre of the road! Getting across, and mounting the reservation with a bike and trailer was the hard part....or at least, I thought it was the hard part! The really difficult part was getting to the end of the route as it led into oncoming traffic and trying to find some way of getting back to the correct side of the road. I decided that that would be my last attempt at locating and using Chilean cycle lanes.

 

Ok now for the really hard part...finding accommodation! You’ll be aware that it turns dark at around 5.45.... I was still looking for accommodation at 9.00! By this time, I had also done a complete loop around to where I entered Temuco. I decided to take the “Norte” route to see if I had anymore luck. Though it still wasn’t easy, I eventually found a hostel. I didn’t even take the name of the place. Clearly I’d interrupted a family party, however, probably noting desperation, they showed me a room, which had a shower (a warm one), TOWEL ALSO! – this is unheard of, and breakfast at 7.45...... all for £12!.  I showered, went out for a choriza pizza, though couldn’t resist the mussel starter!.

 

I wandered back to the hotel, switched on the TV...HBO, and watched some weird and very unsettling film about a family that was killed by a couple of geeky characters who you wouldn’t expect to be able to swat a fly, far less kill a family. It even had that most evil of actors, Roth; playing a wimpy husband! A wimp...... Roth? Never! Anyway, as is normally the case, I fell asleep before it finished and, as the owners were still partying. Think it was called mind games!

 

I was up sharpish, but suffering a dodgy tummy. Once again, could it have been the mussels! Surely, I’m not developing an allergy to seafood! I managed to get ready, had my breakfast and left, but it was a slow and hilly climb out of Temuco. Was I pleased to see a number of service stations on the way out of there; and no corrupt Argentinian policemen!!!!

 

I am also pleased to say that I was joined for the first thirty miles of my cycle out of Temuco, by a fellow cyclist....albiet one who isn’t mad enough to do the distance I’m doing. Bernardo lived in Temuco and kept me company, supported me through my somewhat nauseous trip out of Temuco, before turning back. Between my poor Spanish and Bernardo’s good English, we enjoyed a good conversation on the way out of Temuco. He had lived in Temuco and Los Angeles, but was born in Chillan. He clearly loved his country, his cycling and his fishing. His sons lived In Los Angeles ( Chile) and his daughter went to university catolica in Temuco. He also had four grandchildren. He give me the necessary support  and engendered the willpower to make it to Victoria, where I decided that I’d stop and try and recover. I had hoped to reach Collipulli, but the stomach, if not the legs, was saying no!

 

Well despite my sore thigh, I put in one  of the biggest single trips yet, 87 miles between Valdivia and  Temuco and didn’t feel too bad, though angry at not finding accommodation quickly enough. However when I eventually did find it, it came at the right price.

 

Still need to get my act together for the trip to Santiago in the next 6 days